El Mirador Trek Day 4
For the first time on this trip, the sheet I was given sufficed to keep me warm during the night. Actually, it never cooled off that much during the night—I was comfortable in a long sleeve t-shirt and shorts. And the sheet is really more of an old curtain—I swear. It’s too ugly to be a simple bedspread.
We are hiking to Nakbe today, which is a half day’s walk from here. So, we’re not in a hurry this morning. I am awake in the twilight and moving around before everyone else but the cook, who thankfully has some hot water ready for coffee.
As the eastern sky brightens Marc walks down from his tent, looking tired but cheerful. After the others trickle in, we are served the same breakfast as the past several days: whipped beans and tortillas, and eggs for those who want them. It’s simple, but hearty fare. I would love some fruit, but ran out of bananas on the second day.
By the time we’ve eaten and packed up camp it is well after eight, and I am astonished at how quickly it has heated up. The air already feels like it is the high 70s, and the sun has only been up an hour and a half.
Nakbe is about 12 kilometers away, and was visible to the southeast from the pyramid last night. It is small outlier of El Mirador, much like Tintal or even La Muerta. To get there, we retrace our path to La Danta from the night before, once again passing the platform and pyramid there, and follow a causeway to the next site.
Despite being covered and surrounded by jungle, the two thousand year-old causeway is clearly visible as we hike, being 30 meters wide and mostly flat. According to Miguel, it will take us all the way to Nakbe.
By now, my interest in birds has spread to the others, so we stop often along the way at any fluttering in the trees. Almost every bird is one I haven’t seen before I came to Guatemala, so I am thrilled at each sighting. I could linger behind for hours, but now that we’re off the main tourist route, I don’t want to get left behind in the jungle.
We reach a junction with a trail that leads off into the jungle to the east. Miguel offers the option of a 45-minute round trip hike to see the ruins out there. In the heat of the day there isn’t much enthusiasm, but Franz and I want to see everything we can, so we go.
The main building there is a pyramid that has been looted in the past: a large trench has been dug vertically in the structure. I imagine this is common in the smaller, outlying ruins in this part of the country. Miguel gives us some background on it, and I’m astonished that it is over 3000 years old.
By noon we are close to Nakbe, and our guide takes us off on a side trail to get to the campsite. I am second in line, behind Miguel, and have to walk far enough back so that the branches don’t rebound into my face. I worry about the plants along the trail being poisonous, but so far I haven’t seen anything suspicious.
It is hot when we arrive at the camp at Nakbe, which is empty but for our cook and two caretakers. As I take off my pack and reach for a water bottle, I can feel itching all over my arms and legs.
Taking a close look at my left I hand I see the problem: ticks. Tiny ticks, dozens of them, crawling on my hand and up my bare arm. I pull out my bug spray and try it on them, but it doesn’t do anything but wet my skin. I have to pick them off, one by one. It is a tedious undertaking that takes over an hour, though I’m not sure I got them all. Every little itch now feels like another one, and my legs are covered in small red welts. I look like I’m breaking out with chicken pox. It is the most uncomfortable I can be, short of being in pain.
To my amazement, none of the others have any ticks. What the hell? I suppose that hiking near the front is what started my infestation. Or was it where I sat for a snack an hour before we got here? The magic red pants I bought for this trip have a hole in the crotch from hiking the tall steps up the Mayan pyramids, which makes for easy access for the ticks and any other insects out here.
But, I am changing into my running shorts—I gotta get out of these pants. I change in my tent, then hose down my pants with more bug spray and hang them in the sun.
The heat of the day is bearing down on us. I sit in the shaded dining area and watch the monkeys. One is laying head-down on a vertical branch, supported by its tail, and is watching us. It reminds me of the look my dog gives me when he wants to go outside. Several of the other monkeys are on the move, but he holds to his perch until the others have left, then follows.
As I watch them disappear into the distant treetops, I see a large raptor on a branch, still as a stone. I raise my binoculars and glass it: Barred Forest-Falcon, a new bird. It’s the only sign of avian life at this hour, as all the other birds are resting quietly in the shade.
Around three Miguel rounds us up and takes us through the ruins. He shows us a small quarry, where stones were cut out with incredible precision.
We wander around more of the complex, climbing a small pyramid, then pass a large ball court is the one of the oldest ones ever found at Mayan ruins, according to Miguel.
From there, we walk to a large round stone on the ground, which covers the entrance to a chultun, or underground storage room. Miguel moves the stone, and then invites us to check it out. I decline, but Franz, being taller and more adventurous, volunteers to go in.
The passageway is long and narrow, and he lowers himself until he reaches a small shelf on which he can stand. Then he disappears with his flashlight into the darkness. After my tick experience earlier, I’m limiting my exposure to any more insects for the day.
For the fourth night in a row, we catch the sunset from the tallest pyramid on the sight, which is just over 40 meters from bottom to top. The sky has been partly cloudy all afternoon, and now close to dusk, there are even more. To the south and east we can see rain falling, but it looks to be tracking around us. The sun breaks through with mighty sunburst, which makes for the most dramatic sunset yet. We had debated leaving early, but we are all glad we stayed.
On the way back to camp, small drops of rain fall through the treetops. The shower lasts only a few minutes while we eat. Once my belly is full, I wander through the dark to my tent.
The night air is warm and humid, and feels quite pleasant when I strip down naked. Wearing clothing will give the ticks somewhere to hide, so I’m choosing to sleep in the buff to deter them from taking up residence on me.
Sometime after midnight the monkeys erupt into a chorus of mad howling and yipping. I bolt upright in my tent, startled that we may be under attack. But they keep to the trees, and it takes some time before I can go back to sleep.
Just another night in the jungle.
Matt Dunn Online 